You know how memories can be triggered by certain songs or smells? Certain foods can do that, too. For me, one of those trigger foods is Ambrosia.

 

Ancient History

Ambrosia. What is it? According to ancient Greek myths, it was food for the gods. It made them immortal.

Ambrosia also has a biblical connection. Christian scholars liken it to the manna God supplied to the Israelites during their exodus from Egypt.

In both cases, the food is a divine gift said to be sweet and taste good.

Did You Know…

• “Ambrosia” comes from the Greek word “ambrosios,” meaning “immortal.”

 

Modern History

Over time, Ambrosia changed from a mythical food to an actual, edible food. We don’t know who created “modern” Ambrosia, but it’s possible it was someone in the Southern U.S. (Unfortunately, none of the cooking columns found in U.S. newspapers in the 1870s mention its origin.)

The first Ambrosia recipe was quite simple, alternating layers of grated coconut, sugar, and sliced oranges, in a glass dish. Thanks to the railroads, these ingredients and, thus Ambrosia, spread across the country. Oranges from Florida could easily be sent to northern markets. Likewise, coconuts, arriving by ship on the West Coast, could be quickly transported to the East. This new mode of transportation cut the cost of oranges and coconuts and made them more widely available.

Did You Know…

• The citrus industry moved permanently to Florida after several hard freezes in the 1830s. Prior to that time, citrus fruits (including oranges) had been grown in Georgia and South Carolina.
• One of the first written references to Ambrosia appeared in the 1867 cookbook, Dixie Cookery: or How I Managed My Table for Twelve Years, by Maria Massey Barringer of Concord, North Carolina.
• The production of oranges spiked after the Civil War. In less than a thirty-year period (late 1860s-1893), production increased from one million to five million boxes per year.

 

The Evolution

Like everything else, Ambrosia has evolved over time. Its traditional three-ingredient (oranges, coconut, and sugar) recipe has been reinterpreted by chefs and home cooks alike. They’ve adapted it to modern tastes, keeping in mind local flavors and family traditions and culture.

These unique interpretations include a variety of expected, and often unexpected, components.

For instance, fruits may include various kinds of oranges (satsuma, navel, and blood), pineapple chunks, maraschino cherries, fresh cherries, bananas, grapefruit, grapes, kumquats, dates, papayas, peaches, and pears. Some recipes call for nuts. In the south, pecans rule, but walnuts can also be used. And to bind it together, the choices run the gamut from sweet to healthy, including marshmallow fluff, whipped cream, heavy cream, frozen whipped topping, sugarcane syrup, mayonnaise, sour cream, cream cheese, and Greek yogurt. (Some also include spirits and flavorings like rum, sherry, Maderia, grenadine, almond, and mint.)

Today, sweet, mini-marshmallow-laced Ambrosia is the standard. But it is by no means the only way to make it. One recipe I saw included chopped celery, avocado, cucumber, and jalapeno with a savory buttermilk-lime dressing. (Sorry, but that’s a little too much “reinventing” for this Southern girl.)

Did You Know…

• Sliced pineapple was added to Ambrosia in the 1880s.
• Ambrosia has seen a resurgence in popularity because it’s easy to prepare, it’s versatile, and its variations are almost limitless.

 

Food For Thought

To give any food the moniker, “ambrosia,” it has to be pretty special. In the 1800s, Ambrosia on the table made a statement. Its semi-exotic flavors provided a touch of luxury to any celebration or occasion.

Then, around 1900, Ambrosia appears to have morphed into a traditional Southern holiday food, linked to Christmas. This likely happened because fresh oranges from Florida became available in December, and because Ambrosia was considered a “fancy” dish and luxurious treat that would have been saved for special family celebrations.

For many of us, Ambrosia triggers warm memories of those family occasions and loved ones now lost. It’s a reminder of life’s simple pleasures. But it also tells a story about the family who prepared it. It bridges their past and present through their culinary traditions. For me, Ambrosia brings to mind memories of Christmases past, my paternal grandmother, and our Tennessee roots.

This year, if you have an Ambrosia recipe, pass it down to younger family members, preserving your traditions and cultural heritage for the next generation. If you don’t have a recipe, and your family hasn’t made it in the past, why not try it, and start a new family culinary tradition. Whichever group you fall into, prepare a dish of Ambrosia during the holidays, and enjoy it with family and friends.

Did You Know…

• Ambrosia represents joy, abundance, and celebrations of harmony and togetherness.
• Those first Ambrosia recipes appeared throughout the year and weren’t linked to Christmas or other holidays.
• You don’t have to wait until Christmas to make Ambrosia. (Click here to watch Paula Deen make it with her son. Click here for a copy of the recipe.)